This place is too cool for skool. berta
restaurant is simply sizzling with hotness. As the Sydney Morning Herald’s Good Food Guide’s best new restaurant of the year it’s no surprise by 6.30pm on a Friday night it’s already heaving at the seams.
This tiny industrial space overlooks a rough alley and a razor-wired carpark….. the sort of edgy chic you usually only find in Melbourne – or Beirut.
The blackboard menu has dishes pared down to their three essential ingredients.
We start with the clams, mussels and fennel
This is done in a light tomato broth with spinach and flecks of garlic. Very morish, robust flavours.
Dishes are designed to share. Next to come out on a wooden serving board are crunchy cubes of polenta topped with a chilli salsa verde and pickled fennel.
Ocean trout, radish and pickled jerusalem artichoke
Next are kipler potatoes with garlic and rosemary.
Crunchy skins and fluffy insides..
preparing the way for the piece de resistance…. roast suckling pig and white beans
my arteries are hardening in anticipation
deceptively simple food with big flavour
Our biggest gripe is the noise level. Animation and buzz are one thing in a happening eatery on a busy night but deafening cacophony is not a good accompaniement to great food. A little more noise reduction panelling and we’ll be coming back more often.